The quick answers to quick questions thread

In reply to Peabody :

I'd go with the 2018 for the lower miles, and being made prior to the Covid-induced supply chain mess. 

Peabody said:

Assuming same/similar condition, options, and price. Do you buy a

2018 with 40,000 miles or

2021 with 65,000 miles 

It will be a second car with low usage. 

If keeping until the wheels fall off in 25 yrs, maybe the 2018. If possibly selling in 5yrs, probably the 2021. They're both low enough miles that I think the resale value is likely to be higher in say 2030 for a 2021 vs a 2018. Or, buy both and do a long term analysis and share the results here.

So other than looks, is there any reason I shouldn't put insulation over a window that is covered in plastic with blackout curtains on it?

That triple in the middle. 

Cause even with plastic taped up, it still breathes a bit in the winter, and in the summer it still shines through the blackout curtains and heats the house up first thing in the morning. So I was thinking a layer of rockwool insulation behind the plastic could help. 

In reply to RevRico :

An architect acquaintance who lives in a crazy cool solar-heated house in Albuquerque, NM made insulating panels for his already highly efficient windows.  He used foil tape to join the edges of two thicknesses of foil-backed polystyrene insulation panels.  They were cut to fit snugly in each window opening.  He would install them at night when he wanted insulation and had no need for a window.  In the morning, he would remove them to admit natural light and a beautiful view of the city and the Sandia Mountains beyond. 

So, I'm getting ready to finish the cabinets for my C-note speakers.  I'm attaching Band-It veneer facing, which is paper-backed and extremely flexible.  Should I use Super 77?  Or Weldwood contact cement?  I'm pretty sure the Super 77 should hold it, but I'm waffling. 

Well quit eating Breakfast and use  the Super 77. It sprays on even on both surfaces and you should not have lumps in the Veneer surfaces

MyMiatas said:

Well quit eating Breakfast and use  the Super 77. It sprays on even on both surfaces and you should not have lumps in the Veneer surfaces

Thank you!  I figure as small as the panels are, and as "gently" as the finished product will be handled, the Super 77 should do fine.   As usual, I'm overthinking it!

What kind of spray paint do I use on an AC condenser so it doesn't look all shiny aluminum through the grill? I don't want to impact its thermal efficiency

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

In reply to Stampie :

That was step one. It took what little black was left on it off

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

Look for radiator paint. I got it from Eastwood the last time I needed some. 

Dusterbd13-michael said:

What kind of spray paint do I use on an AC condenser so it doesn't look all shiny aluminum through the grill? I don't want to impact its thermal efficiency

I have a new 3 cu. ft. "mini" fridge that needs to move across town.  Can I lay it on its side?  Back?  Front?  No exposed coils, but the box seems to suggest not to tip it.  I'd like to lay it down in the back of the CX-9 and send it.  Won't take more than 30 minutes.  What's the worst that can happen?

In reply to 1988RedT2 :

I have been told to NEVER lay a fridge on its side as the oil will drain away from the motor causing it to burn up. Until I was told that, I used to always lay them on their side and just let them sit in the upright position for a while to allow the oil to drain back into the condenser motor and they never burned up. Who knows?

In reply to 1988RedT2 :

Just leave it upright a couple hours before plugging it in (20 or 30 minutes is likely fine as opposed to 2 hours). On its side, the mineral oil leaves the compressor and collects in the coil. "Flip it over and plug it in" means it runs with no/low oil.

Let all the oil return to the sump and then you are okay.

Dusterbd13-michael said:

What kind of spray paint do I use on an AC condenser so it doesn't look all shiny aluminum through the grill? I don't want to impact its thermal efficiency

Anything you paint on the aluminum fins will act like insulation and will do the exact opposite of what you hope. The only reason anything is ever painted black is so that when sunlight hits the paint, it is converted into infrared radiation and radiates the heat, either into the aluminum or into the air. Also the opposite of what you want. White paint reflects most of the sunlight but that's not what you want either. Leave it shiny bare aluminum.

VolvoHeretic said:

Dusterbd13-michael said:

What kind of spray paint do I use on an AC condenser so it doesn't look all shiny aluminum through the grill? I don't want to impact its thermal efficiency

Anything you paint on the aluminum fins will act like insulation and will do the exact opposite of what you hope. The only reason anything is ever painted black is so that when sunlight hits the paint, it is converted into infrared radiation and radiates the heat, either into the aluminum or into the air. Also the opposite of what you want. White paint reflects most of the sunlight but that's not what you want either. Leave it shiny bare aluminum.

The black helps radiation in both directions, so that is a wash. Paint is still bad for filling cracks and insulating reasons.

If you want black, go with Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. It is a very soft surface conversion, but will make it black without a coating. It also works on brass. 

I should saw off half my counter and replace it with butcher block, right?

In reply to RevRico :

Yes. Butcher block is actually relatively inexpensive, and very durable if treated properly.

RevRico said:

I should saw off half my counter and replace it with butcher block, right?

Why only half? Would the other half still look okay next to the giant butcher block?

NMNA But what causes the lines in the  front rotors? I have never seen ones like these. No gouges just smooth lines.

I'm no brake expert, but I've done a few dozen brake jobs and I've seen the lines you reference.  IMO, it's the result of very hard compound brake pads, like ceramic, that wear metal off the rotor face as they themselves wear.  One of the reasons that I will almost always replace rotors when I replace pads.  The fact that those rotors are drilled probably adds to the banding effect.

Replacing the plugs on my 2002 F53 6.8l Ford V10.  Installing Autolite Double Platinum plugs.  Cannot find a definitive answer on the Anti-Seize / No Anti-Seize question. 

If I was going to, think I would use nickel, but don't know if that is right.

Engine is in a 30' MH that usually tows a small car.

Also - anyone know of a workshop manual for this? All I find are $400 Ford manuals, which is a bit over the top.

CJ said:

Replacing the plugs on my 2002 F53 6.8l Ford V10.  Installing Autolite Double Platinum plugs.  Cannot find a definitive answer on the Anti-Seize / No Anti-Seize question. 

If I was going to, think I would use nickel, but don't know if that is right.

Engine is in a 30' MH that usually tows a small car.

Also - anyone know of a workshop manual for this? All I find are $400 Ford manuals, which is a bit over the top.

Aluminum head, right?

I might use a small amount of the copper stuff.  Or none at all.  Just be sure to torque to the specified number.

In reply to 1988RedT2 :

They are in need of replacment. The outer edge is sticking out way too far and it is ment to be even.