How does my all plastic food processor know when the lid isn't on? There are no wires in the bowl or lid.
Also
How stupid/expensive/labor intensive would it be to rig the Subaru clutch hill hold thing in the SRT?
How does my all plastic food processor know when the lid isn't on? There are no wires in the bowl or lid.
Also
How stupid/expensive/labor intensive would it be to rig the Subaru clutch hill hold thing in the SRT?
In reply to RevRico :
The hill holder in my Subaru was a large device connected by a cable to the clutch fork. From reading the service info, it needed to be installed at a precise angle to work, so it only held you on a hill if you were nose up.
It was about the size of an ABS unit, and it was mounted under the spare tire, to give an idea of how old the Subaru was 
I expect that anything newer just uses some software in the ABS controller to do the same thing.
RevRico said:How does my all plastic food processor know when the lid isn't on? There are no wires in the bowl or lid.
Does the lid when on and tight push down on the center blade spindle thingie? Could be a switch under there.
In reply to 1988RedT2 :
It does not. My best guess is some sort of weight sensor where the motor is. I just realized it somehow knows when I open the lid to add stuff instead of using the spout.
Rough day, had me thinking of weird E36 M3 to not lose my cool.
Okay, so since adding brake fluid to the dry system in the Chevy II, I notice that I have a fluid leak on the front passenger side. There is a little brass right-angle fitting that has female threads on both ends. One end is attached to the brake line under the hood, the right angle part juts through a hole in the inner fender, and that end attaches to a short piece of hard line, which attaches to the brake hose. I already have new stainless lines ready to go in, and I suspect the block will be useless after I get the fitting out of it, if it isn't already. I'm getting ready to apply max force with vice grips in order to separate the fitting from the brass elbow, and I want to have a new part on hand when I get this thing apart. For something that seems commonplace, I'm having a heck of a time finding one.
This is close, but has an extra port I don't want:
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1966/chevrolet/chevyiinova/parts/2076a.html
In reply to RevRico :
On mine, when you spin the bowl to lock it into place, there is a little stud the bottom of the bowl the presses down on a matching stud on the base. Inside the base that completes the circuit and energizes the motor.
Anybody got any good advice on how to separate a brake line from a brass block that's been installed and tight for about 58 years? I've tried PBlaster and a wrench and moved on to the vice grips. Still not budging. The nut might as well be made of fudge.
Torch
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
To what extent do I need to be concerned with excess pressure due to boiling? Also, flammability?
In reply to 1988RedT2 :
If there's a flex line nearby it will blow
Eh. I used propane and mapp gss.
Only time I ever had an issue was with a 50-year-old rubber hose blowing out of the crimped on metal end. Never had an issue on the brass block to metal tube side
Okay. Thanks. I'm thinking to be on the safe side I'm going to order the brass block for the other side. I've already got new hard lines, uninstalled, laying around. I set out to fix this leak in the easiest way possible, but I'm thinking the best way might be to disconnect the line from the master to the DS block, then replace every last piece of this old-ass brake line. Kind of wish I'd made this decision before I added fluid to what was a dry system up until a month ago. I've got a lot of expensive paint that I really don't want brake fluid on.
Can't find the "what washing machine" thread. Unbelievably, it appears I'm in the market. Is there a relatively cheap mass-market machine that doesn't suck too bad?
In reply to 1988RedT2 :
If you can find a speed queen with knobs on it. Maybe used?
6 years ago new it was under a grand but not by much, and I suspect it will outlive me
Yeah, I can buy almost three Maytags for the price of one Speed Queen. Gonna have to think on it.
If I buy a project car specifically as a way to learn about all its 'new' tech stuff, can I deduct the purchase as an education expense?
(Bonus question: is it bad if I consider a 2013 FFE as 'new' tech?)
Oapfu said:If I buy a project car specifically as a way to learn about all its 'new' tech stuff, can I deduct the purchase as an education expense?
(Bonus question: is it bad if I consider a 2013 FFE as 'new' tech?)
Certainly you can deduct it. Now whether or not that deduction is in accordance with the law and would withstand scrutiny under an audit, well, I have no idea, but I suspect not.
you can deduct anything...until you get audited lol
In reply to Oapfu :
If you are in the auto repair business or offer online instructionals and make a YouTube educational video about the process for the purpose of marketing yourself as a professional to help drum up business, then you can certainly deduct it. 😉
(But I wouldn't call it a "project car" or a "build thread")! 😉😂
No luck on the Caddy forums so I'll try here. How can I stop the crank from turning while I torque the crankshaft bolt to 125 ft.lbs? 1956 Cadillac 365. There is no window on the bell housing that I could find. Edit: The engine is in the car.
In reply to NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) :
Try putting the car in gear and hold the brakes?
NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) said:No luck on the Caddy forums so I'll try here. How can I stop the crank from turning while I torque the crankshaft bolt to 125 ft.lbs? 1956 Cadillac 365. There is no window on the bell housing that I could find. Edit: The engine is in the car.
I have a couple spare flexplates of varying tooth counts that I cut sections out of, jam against an engine's flexplate/flywheel, weld some flatstock to and drill at least two holes to bolt to something nearby. Starter mounts, bellhousing bolts, framerail, etc.
I'm supposed to go bowling as a team building thingy this Thursday.
I know someone that suspects she got a horrible foot infection from wearing loaner bowling shoes...how worried should I be?
NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) said:No luck on the Caddy forums so I'll try here. How can I stop the crank from turning while I torque the crankshaft bolt to 125 ft.lbs? 1956 Cadillac 365. There is no window on the bell housing that I could find. Edit: The engine is in the car.
Figure out when #1 will be TDC on the firing stroke (so that the valves are closed.) Turn crank so #1 is at BDC-ish, feed clean 1/4" nylon rope into cylinder. Slowly turn crank so that piston compresses the rope against the cyl head and the closed valves.
Torque bolt to your heart's content. Remove rope by going back to BDC-ish and pulling out of cyl
RX Reven' said:I'm supposed to go bowling as a team building thingy this Thursday.
I know someone that suspects she got a horrible foot infection from wearing loaner bowling shoes...how worried should I be?
I guess anything is possible. Most of the places I've seen take shoes back from customers will spray some sort of disinfectant in them before putting them in their storage slot.
That said, I have gotten some ratty bowling shoes on those few times I rent them. Join a league, buy your very own shoes, then get a good reactive ball and get it drilled to fit your hand. Problem solved! 
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