MIL had a 2007 Toyota Highlander. 3.3 l v6 - supposedly interference. It has about 39k on the clock. So the recommended tb change is about 90k. Manual says start checking at 60k or 72 months. Dealer of course recommended changing it. They told mil it looks worn (no sign of bolts ever turned or moved on the cover btw). She drives it regularly, just not far.
What Sayerth the hive? Change it based on age or don't sweat it?
Honestly, if a timing belt "looks worn" You are way over the limits on it. 40,000 miles should have it looking almost new
No sign of bolts on the cover removed. I don't think anyone actually looked at it unless there's a port somewhere to view the belt
The 3.4 in my 4runner is not interference.
I'm questioning how they know its worn.
EDIT: The googles says it is an interference engine indeed.
The dealership should have said "Best practice is to change The T belt due to old age at this point" not use a scare tactic claiming it "looks worn" when in fact they couldn't have been in deep enough to see that.
The belt should be replaced, but not by that stealership.
Rubber does not last forever, hence the miles OR time spec.
I had the same scenario happen with a friend of mine with a Honda that was nowhere near the mileage, but was 10 years old. She priced a couple of recommended independents and they were higher than the dealer.
If it's over five years old, get it off the engine and in a trash can, no matter the mileage.
HappyAndy wrote: The dealership should have said "Best practice is to change The T belt due to old age at this point" not use a scare tactic claiming it "looks worn" when in fact they couldn't have been in deep enough to see that. The belt should be replaced, but not by that stealership.
I double agree
Dad had a 944 (interference engine)…factory sez’ change timing belt @ xxx miles…mechanic sez’ change it 5K earlier as he has seen them not make it to the factory number…Dad sez’ change it 2K before mechanic’s number to be extra safe and makes an appointment to have it done…three days before the appointment (BOOM!!!).
Why don’t you just put a sweet 13B in that Highlander to, you know, show your MIL how much you care.
Sell it and buy something with a chain? 
I've never had trouble with factory intervals for the first one. If I do the belt with a good aftermarket replacement (like Gates) I still shorten the interval. I figure the factory has all kinds of those specialized torque tools and probably some special gadget to set proper tension. At home I kinda twist and poke at the belt until the tension feels right and use a torque wrench that is about 30 years old. Given the potential for my inaccuracy, I keep it shorter once I've done it.
Factory interval for an old Tercel I had was 80k. I replaced it at 80k along with pulleys and water pump, but I did it again 60k later.
But in all honesty, I really do avoid belts on an appliance car. If I really want a certain car (like my old E30) I put up with the fact that it has a belt, but I usually select a car with a chain. Its not that chains can't fail, they just usually give you a very long warning period.
RX Reven' wrote: Dad had a 944 (interference engine)…factory sez’ change timing belt @ xxx miles…
Or two years, whichever comes first.
curtis73 wrote: Sell it and buy something with a chain?
Like a GM with a 3.6, or a 5.4 Ford...
I will take either a belt, or decent quality chain, which is certainly rare when combined with extended drain. Volvo belt interval is 192,000 km, and the belts come off looking fine. 3.6 gm rarely makes 80,000 miles without needing chains, tensioners and phasers. Garbage.
To the original question, I'd do it because you are concerned. Chances are good it will live to the recommended mileage, but you will be worried the whole time.
You'll need to log in to post.
