dculberson said:
Toebra said:
Nitrile gloves are just not as good as latex
For what? My experience is the exact opposite when it comes to anything with high forces or any petroleum product contact involved. Latex gloves are basically useless when working on a car. Nitrile gloves are where it's at.
For use at bedside or in a treatment room when sterile gloves are not required. Nitrile is not as stretchy as latex, I find latex has better feel.
They are okay for working on cars, due to the petroleum thing. I will take a bar of soap and scratch a bit of soap under the distal edges of my nails prior to working on the car, type of glove will depend on what I am doing, I do like the nitrile gloves for oil changes.
I have a pair of Milwaukee Impact Demolition gloves that I used pretty extensively during some house projects. They look different, but very similar to the ones currently on the Home Depot site. They refused any signs of wear. Ymmv if you're using them professionally, but as a weekend DIY type person, I really like them.
When typing, such as answering emails, I wear boxing gloves.
I've tried lots of gloves and unless you need impact protection or water resistance or something, these cannot be beat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GPLR53G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use the cheapo HF latex with grippy material at work since they aren't too bulky and easy pull on/off. $2 a pair too so not out a lot of $$ if they fall apart.
This thread got zombie canoed and nuked between the time I clicked on it and realized it was from last year.
That said the glove market has developed a bit so I thought I would respond anyway.
The best gloves I like for all uses are Maxi-Flex. These are similar to the other rubber coated knit gloves except the rubber is thinner and more flexible giving better dexterity. They are also available in different sizes. These features combined make them infinitely superior to the HF red coated gloves.
They are very flexible and the foam coating is very durable. I usually get a few weeks worth of garage work out of them. Online mail order they aren't to bad price wise ($4-6 / pr) but if I see them in stores they are usually 10-12 / pr.
So I've found the Kinco Brand 1888 type gloves are nearly equivalent and they stock them at Rural King for $2.99/pair. The fabric part of these are not as durable as the Maxi-flex but the foam rubber part seems to be equivalent. I usually wind up busting through the fabric backs before I wear out the foam parts. That said DO NOT USE THEM when welding. They offer no protection (DUH) and weld splatter just shreds the fabric to pieces due to heat damage. I learned this because when tacking with the MIG welder it's tempting to just BZZZZRT whenever you need to. Using these gloves adds the step of changing gloves to MIG unless you want to replace them more often.
Zombie thread, but I'll say I'm still using the same pair of leather Tillman gloves I was last year when the tread started. More patina but still in great shape. Still my go-to for steel work, welding, and lumber handling but not the right choice for wrenching.
Good to know bout the Tillman 1414, I have been looking for a good leather glove for landscaping. (Needs to be full leather to stop thorns). This might be my ticket, thanks!
For wrenching, nitrile all the way. I buy the big packs at Costco. For yardwork, lumber handling, etc, I use the split leather work gloves from Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/safety/gloves/work-gloves/leather-industrial-work-gloves-5-pairs-66287.html
In reply to Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) :
^^^ These are the ones I get. I tend to lose gloves long before I wear them out.
For light to medium remodeling work, these DeWalt gloves have been pretty good: https://www.fullsource.com/dewalt-dpg216/
Not full stiff leather, but enough where it matters.
Lighter handling and yard work, I just grab a dozen of these MCR's at a time: https://www.fullsource.com/mcr-safety-96699/
They feel like you're wearing nothing, but are palm coated for pine cones/sticks and such.
