What circular saw should i buy?

I've had a corded Makita for 10 years. It's fantastic.

If I was buying, it would be a Makita.  I got a Milwaukee saw as my 25th work anniversary and it destroys the old reman Sears I had before that for 40 years.  

Since this thread was stared two years ago has battery tech gotten better to make cordless ones a viable option?

In reply to gearheadmb :

For decades I asked contractors I sold equipment to that very question.  The vast majority of them said Mikita 

It’s light, strong, durable, and  affordable. 

However do not underestimate the blade you use. Cheap blades dull quickly, Do not tend to cut straight because they flex too much.  That same flexing  causes binding.  

I’d love to give you blade recommendations but they change so much, even a great blade may become mediocre and then bad.  But in general use carbide when you can. That harder cutting tip really helps.  

Switch blades like you switch Sox’s.  Go from fine tooth for detail work to the big hook blades for demolition.

 Always try to use a cutting guide. A simple speed square not only makes your cuts straight, it actually helps you cut faster and square.  But long cuts need a long guide.  Nobody cuts exactly straight, even with a line to guide them.  Using guides will  allow a circular saw to do 95%  of what a table saw will.  

 Considering I not only built my house with my own 2 hands, I spent 21 years selling to the housing/ construction industry.  Oh and Yes I have the Milwaukee worm drive, and A dozen Other power saws, but the go to is usually the Mikita, now going on 19 years and over 50,000 board feet.  

I didnt understand hypoid saws until i gave it a chance and used one. Got used to it, now any time i use a regular circular saw i despise it. 

Bought myself a makita hypoid last time i needed one.  So much smoother as your pushing the saw from the back and not the top. I have much less prob with wondering or bogging with a hypoid. 

In reply to frenchyd :

It's not so much the flex that causes binding, it's a blade heating up and starting to warp.  If you look at a good circular saw blade it has all these thin relief slots around the circumference.  These are like the expansion joints on a bridge and allow the blade to get warm without going out of true.

Carbide blade tech has come a long way in the past 30 years (and gotten SO much cheaper) allowing blades to be thinner (the kerf) which means less sawdust, less waste, and less power needed to drive the saw through the wood. 

Like tires on a car, a bad blade will make a good saw suck and a good blade will allow a E36 M3ty saw to work pretty well.

dean1484 said:

Since this thread was stared two years ago has battery tech gotten better to make cordless ones a viable option?

For hobby and around-the-house DIY use, absolutely yes. For professional roofing and framing, also yes, but the tools and batteries cost more.

Pro grade saws from the big three will be 7 1/4 blade, brushless, and about $300 for a saw and battery kit. They'll have a cast sole plate instead of stamped, and they'll work amazingly.

DIY homeowner saws to build a deck, frame out walls to finish your basement, etc will have a 6 1/2 or 7 1/4 blade, might be brushless, and will be a little cheaper.

If you already have some Milwaukee/Dewalt/Makita tools, just get the nice saw that pairs well with what you have.

In reply to gearheadmb :

Since we've revived a zombie thread, I guess I can answer now. I still love the saw and it is easier to use with one hand than my old circular because the balance is much better and it doesn't try to torque out of your hand.