What wagon to buy

Ok, here's the deal. I picked up a Focus Wagon a few months ago and after actually driving it, I have NO confidence in it at all. I want out!
So, anyway the focus is going away (what a dreadful little car BTW). I'm looking for a station wagon and am looking to spend about 3K. I'm thinking either outback, forester or volvo something. My question to you is, what would you do? And, for those that have owned one of these (or what ever other car you will suggest) how are they for maintenance and what things should I look for and what things should I avoid?
On the topic of the Volvo, I hear some talk of high-pressure vs. low pressure models, can you edumicate me?

I would be surprised if you could find a newer reliable subaru for 3k. Around here at least (wv) subarus hold their values surprisingly well. But that would probably be my choice. I'd look for a late 90's outback as they seem to be the most reasonably priced for what you get. outback limiteds don't seem to have much of a premium on resale but they are slightly nicer inside (power amenities and leather and such)

I couldn't sell my '99 Legacy wagon for 2500. In the end, I decided to just keep it.

While I don't think much of it as a car, it's a good workhorse.

With the Volvos, the high-pressure/low pressure refers to the turbos. Unsurprisingly the HPT makes more power .

From your selection, if you're looking at AWD you're pretty much stuck with Subaru I'd guess, if you don't then maybe something like a Volvo 850 wagon?

DrB, as i'm on the same quest as you, may I ask what was so bad/dissapointing about the focus wagon? Is yours just a bad car, or is it something inherant to the cars/design themselves? My wife has had a few Subi's all from new and all for about 6 or 7 years each and well over 100k miles. (Damn my automotive ADD, I sort of wish I could be like that). A few other friends have Subi's as well and one was boosted hard and ran for 260K before the trans called it quits. So its hard to go wrong with them, if you can find a nonrusty one. From what I have heard talking with some volvo guys if you don't need front or AWD try an older 740/760 volvo. Dead nuts realiable and simple to work on.
Thanks and good luck

I am an 850 wagon owner and like it very much. From what I have read, the AWD system on Volvos are problematic with high repair costs, you may want to avoid.

My 850 wagon is NA and thought I would by no means call it fast, it is adequate for daily driving. I would compare its power to that of the typical 4 cyl Camry. Having a 5 speed does make it a little more fun. I wrote quite a bit on the topic in this thread.
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/850-or-960/14736/page1/

You won't touch a Subie worth owning for $3k unless you get extremely lucky. A dirty '01 Forester with 100k on the clock and ready for a timing belt is going to be at $5500-6k asking and you won't buy it for less than $4500 unless it is beat. Prices on these cars are at a premium among people who want them.

That being said I've bought 2 Impreza wagons in the past year. Between the two of them they averaged out to a good deal... ;)

[edit] Those prices are for the northeast region. I don't know where you're located but north of the Mason-Dixon they are desired cars among those that like them.

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/1409018737.html
$900(or less) purchase price leaves a lot of money to spend on Mustang rims and window tint.

Looks about perfect for you. Subi 2.2L w/ 5 speed, 103K @ $3.5K.

http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1406896048.html

Edit: Other version of the same listing give more detail.
http://jxn.craigslist.org/cto/1392346510.html
And show the asking price as low as $3.2K
http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1392421396.html

With a $3k budget, you're looking at Volvo's that will require wrench time. Probably a pretty good amount of it. Be sure that's what you want to be doing. A cheap Volvo is generally not a good thing.

To ensure turbo confusion, HP turbos are generally the larger ones in vehicles like the T-5 or R models. The LP turbos are usually the smaller ones, in GLT and sometimes "turbo" models. While the T-5 is the fastest of the bunch in the quarter mile with its big turbo, the GLT turbo is the quickest across an intersection or down the first block. Those little turbo units spool up faster and kick in quicker. It also means they peak out quicker and run out of breath first.

Volvo went to great lengths in the 850/V70 series to ensure turbo confusion. With the GLT being a non-turbo base model, until it came with a turbo. In production at the same time as the turbo model. which is not a GLT. Not to be confused with the T-5, the T-5R, or the R. All of which are different, except when they aren't.

i found mine... I CALL DIBS!!!

vortexer said: 1985 Mercedes 300TD Wagon $1000 Front mount intercooler needs piping finished up, manual boost controller @12psi, needs exhaust open DP right now. lowered about 4" has an oil leak but its just the oil filter housing gasket i have the part to fix. one front fender a little rusted have extra mint fender. 17x8 konig crosshair wheels with new tires. i'll try to post some pics later today. with a little work and paint it would be a nice daily decent MPG and blow black smoke all over your friends

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4563396

jrw1621 wrote: Looks about perfect for you. Subi 2.2L w/ 5 speed, 103K @ $3.5K. http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1406896048.html Edit: Other version of the same listing give more detail. http://jxn.craigslist.org/cto/1392346510.html And show the asking price as low as $3.2K http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1392421396.html

That looks about as good as it gets. The 2.2 is bulletproof--none of the head gasket problems you read about with the 2.5l. The L model sells for less than the Outback, but that one has alloy wheels and a sunroof which would be nice options. The clutch on our '95L went at 127k, and we did a timing belt at the same time. That was not an inexpensive fix, but it will run forever so I viewed it as money well spent.

If the clutch has been done on this one already, with the minor fixes mentioned, it should be good to go for quite a while. I am 95% sure it is a non-interference engine, but you would want to ask if the timing belt has been changed anyway.

foxtrapper wrote: With a $3k budget, you're looking at Volvo's that will require wrench time. Probably a pretty good amount of it. Be sure that's what you want to be doing. A cheap Volvo is generally not a good thing.

Not around here (mid-Atlantic). You can buy mid-90's 850 Volvos all day long for $2500 +/-.

In fact, earlier this year I had my '96 wagon (very clean 110k) listed in the $2009 classifieds on this website and I didn't get a single serious nibble. That was when I decided to bite the bullet, get the evap core replaced and keep on driving it.

Some examples:

http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/1410374019.html

http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/1409728397.html

http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/1407721891.html

http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/1405529974.html

http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/1391604037.html

paulmpetrun wrote: DrB, as i'm on the same quest as you, may I ask what was so bad/dissapointing about the focus wagon? Is yours just a bad car, or is it something inherant to the cars/design themselves? My wife has had a few Subi's all from new and all for about 6 or 7 years each and well over 100k miles. (Damn my automotive ADD, I sort of wish I could be like that). A few other friends have Subi's as well and one was boosted hard and ran for 260K before the trans called it quits. So its hard to go wrong with them, if you can find a nonrusty one. From what I have heard talking with some volvo guys if you don't need front or AWD try an older 740/760 volvo. Dead nuts realiable and simple to work on. Thanks and good luck

Ok, about the fucus. It's booooring to drive. That's not why I'm jumping ship though. It has 108K on it and appears to have been well maintained by the PO. My fist freeway drive one of the many coolant hoses blew. It's a molded hose and only available through Ford, for $50! I was able to manage some less expensive fix but only because I was able to go behind the counter at the local autozone and mix and match. Yeah I know, it has over 100K on it, but I've never has hoses split that early on such a well maintained car.
Then there's the rough idle that I just can't seem to figure out. Idles like crap then smooths out off-idle. Then there's the flex pipe rusting out already, and the oil pan, and the trans pan, and every other thing under the car that isn't aluminum. Again, I live in Michigan where they put salt on the roads in August out of habit but I've NEVER had a oil pan that rusty unless it had twice the mileage on it.
Then there's the cheap interior. At night the light behind he HVAC dials shines through because the paint on the dials is just that thin. The doors close with the same thud you'd expect from a Daewoo.
I just don't think it's a quality car. Quality isn't job 1 here. The bottom line is that I don't trust the car. It's let me down once already (my Dodge with 355K on it has NEVER left me stranded) and there are plenty of little things that I expect to break at any time.

Some likes: 30 mpg is nice
tile AND telescoping steering wheel
the windshield hasn't fallen out yet.

Rough idle like the car vibrates and shakes? I'm betting that's the passenger side motor mount.

And yeah, the HVAC control paint is thin. Don't try 'inspecting' it with your fingernail. It'll come off. Ask me how I know.

My 2000 base ZX3 (auto) has been threatening to give up for a while now, but it keeps on running. Even though it's at least 20k overdue for a timing belt/water pump service, needs the aforementioned motor mount in a bad way, and probably needs the IAC replaced.

I still can't get it to return less than 28 mpg. And yesterday I chased down an SRT Charger on the twisty backroads I grew up on. He was probably pissed, judging by the fact that he ran away at about 120 on the first straight. Something to be said for knowing the road like you know your own name, and having a light (relative to a Charger), sharp handling car (SVT suspension).