..of a 2.3 liter Ranger engine. There are two 1/4" diameter holes 1.5" apart on the face of the pulley. Stick something in the holes to hold it, remove the 22mm head bolt.
Easy, right?
Plan B?
Strap wrench? Not enough ass.
Chain wrench? Risk buggering up the serpentine belt grooves.
Got a Plan C?
Thanx.
Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the bellhousing under the flywheel. Insert a large screwdriver and hold tight.
Lean breaker bar against frame rail, being careful to account for direction of rotation, and hit the key.
Get a bigger impact wrench.
Don't try #1 and #2 at the same time 
If it's a stick, pop it in 4th gear, have a buddy stand on the brakes. Otherwise you so as Streetwiseguy said.
Starter and breaker bar trick.
914Driver wrote: ..of a 2.3 liter Ranger engine. There are two 1/4" diameter holes 1.5" apart on the face of the pulley. Stick something in the holes to hold it, remove the 22mm head bolt. Easy, right? Plan B? Strap wrench? Not enough ass. Chain wrench? Risk buggering up the serpentine belt grooves. Got a Plan C? Thanx.
I remember writing the service manual for this engine when it was put in the ranger. The engineers were so proud of the huge case of special tools required to work on it. I told them techs would curse them one day.
Keith Tanner wrote: Don't try #1 and #2 at the same time
Sometimes when you do #2 you cant help but do #1.
Wait, what are we talking about?
I used the old belt trick when I did the Subaru last year.
I guess I should have clarified that those were 3 separate suggestions, not a sequence.
In reply to Woody:
I believe you've posted those images before, and that method has helped me successfully remove a crank pulley bolt. Good on'ya. 
Shotgun
Pull the whole thing and replace it with a 2.3 out of a wrecked Turbocoupe.
buy the 2.3 ranger i have in the classifieds and don't pull crank pulley
RealMiniDriver wrote: In reply to Woody: I believe you've posted those images before, and that method has helped me successfully remove a crank pulley bolt. Good on'ya.
Glad to hear that.
Fueled by Caffeine wrote: Shotgun
Came here for this. 
that is a great idea, Woody.
I personally learned the breaker bar/frame rail/starter trick when doing fiat timing belts. Just be sure to make sure the engine -can't- start.
In reply to mad_machine:
I can't take credit for it, but I don't remember where I first saw it either. That Subaru bolt defeated a 3/4" drive impact gun with big air behind it, but came right off with the belt and one hand on the breaker bar.
Gosh, Woody. I've seen that somewhere recently. Where was it? Where was it... In print somewhere... Darn, can't think of it.
Dr. Hess wrote: Gosh, Woody. I've seen that somewhere recently. Where was it? Where was it... In print somewhere... Darn, can't think of it.
Yeah, I saw that too Doc, but I'd already sold the Subaru by then.
My next attempt is the same thing with a thin strap wrapped around and tied off to the frame.
I used the rope through the spark plug hole on a Civic I used to have.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: If it's a stick, pop it in 4th gear, have a buddy stand on the brakes. Otherwise you so as Streetwiseguy said.
This is the answer. You can probably do it with the parking brake.
I used an angle grinder on the MR2. I DO NOT recommend this method.
914Driver wrote: My next attempt is the same thing with a thin strap wrapped around and tied off to the frame.
Strap wrenches stretch way more than belts.
Rusted_Busted_Spit wrote: I used the rope through the spark plug hole on a Civic I used to have.
This is the easy button. I do however like to do so on the compression stroke knowing that the valves are going to be closed while the rope is compressed between the piston and the cylinder head and some freak chance damage is not imparted.
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