Who are these "low baller" people?

I am sick of seeing guys with clapped out cars telling me "no low ballers". Shoot - you're selling a high mileage rusty Maxima for $1,200 in Chicago. Selling used cars and "low ballers" go together. Cut me some slack.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4410879648.html

I always get a chuckle out of those guys. When I think "Low-baller", its more like offering 10k for a 40k car and not $900 for a $1200 clunker.

Low baller? My older coworkers say that happens with age.

I really like the people that say things like " I looked it up on kbb and know what it's worth I won't take a penny less than $2000" or whatever number it is but don't take into account that the body panels are 4 different colors and you can see through the floors

It's me.

Woody wrote: It's me.

you evil low baller

"Craigslist" and "lowballer" are synonyms.

I thought low ballers were these guys:

(forgot the name of the Japanese "executive car" that is really exclusive for ownership, but seems popular for turning into scraper cars)

Cole_Trickle wrote: I always get a chuckle out of those guys. When I think "Low-baller", its more like offering 10k for a 40k car and not $900 for a $1200 clunker.

That's a bit extreme.

I think of low-ballers as people who intentionally offer less than what they know a car/part is worth. And I'm the first to admit something is only worth what another person will pay. However, I think people get a bit too caught up in trying to "get a deal." Then later they try to complain what they have isn't worth anything.........correlation?

IE, I'm selling a $3000 suspension setup for my Miata that has 3 hours of use. Offering $1500 is lowballing. Offering $1000 shows you're not serious.

In reply to z31maniac:

I would be one of those offering $1000-1500 for a suspension with "Only three hours of use" on it, because let's face it, A. It is used, B. How do I actually know that is all it was used for? C. You obviously are cutting losses anyways and went with something different/better.

So please, tell me again why $1000-1500 wouldn't be a reasonable offer for what was an expensive WHEN NEW setup that's period of use cannot be confirmed by looking at it?

Picked the last one up for 650, but I don't think it was necessarily a low-ball offer...

In reply to Cole_Trickle:

I dunno, I got annoyed when someone offered me 300 for my truck that I wanted 800 for. even said I'd take 500 if they had wheels and tires to throw on it.

my general rule for used is 50%. cars, parts, tools, whatever, if its used, i wont pay anything over half of its agreed value. if that works for the seller, fine. if not, ill keep looking, no hard feelings. simple as that.

-J0N

What irritates me is those guys that say "make me an offer" then get all insulted and ticked off when you do...

It's an understandable sentiment, but pointless. Whenever I put something up for sale, I'll invariably get the calls/texts wanting to know my "bottom line" without ever bothering to come actually look. As well the ones making really silly offers, like $30. The most irritating are the many no shows.

Any more, if they ask I'll tell them where the car/bike/whatever is, and give them times I'm planning to be there because I'm mowing the lawn or such. If they come, fine. If they don't, I go about whatever I was doing.

I've also found it helps to remind everyone that the thing is for sale until it's sold. When someone puts the cash in my hand, it's no longer for sale. If they want to "hold" the item, they can with a full cash payment.

Grizz wrote: I dunno, I got annoyed when someone offered me 300 for my truck that I wanted 800 for.

But did you call out the "no low baller" rule in your listing?

I'm not much of a low baller, but more of a tire kicker.

Grizz wrote: In reply to Cole_Trickle: I dunno, I got annoyed when someone offered me 300 for my truck that I wanted 800 for. even said I'd take 500 if they had wheels and tires to throw on it.

if you don't like the offer … just say no

Yeah, I can see why they're in there sometimes. Listed a miata hardtop at $1000, expected to get a few offers at maybe $700-$800 on the low end. Ended up with at least 3 people offer below $500 and a guy agree to $800 by email, but showed up w/ $500. I think if you're asking below 1/2 the listed value don't even bother as someone is not on the same page.

yamaha wrote: In reply to z31maniac: I would be one of those offering $1000-1500 for a suspension with "Only three hours of use" on it, because let's face it, A. It is used, B. How do I actually know that is all it was used for? C. You obviously are cutting losses anyways and went with something different/better. So please, tell me again why $1000-1500 wouldn't be a reasonable offer for what was an expensive WHEN NEW setup that's period of use cannot be confirmed by looking at it?

lulz, go buy Racelands.

Lowballer would be the last two guys on CL that made "offers" for my 75 MGB (listed at $2500). One offered $1000, next offers $500, those are definitely low ball offers.

foxtrapper wrote: It's an understandable sentiment, but pointless. Whenever I put something up for sale, I'll invariably get the calls/texts wanting to know my "bottom line" without ever bothering to come actually look. As well the ones making really silly offers, like $30. The most irritating are the many no shows.

I'm that bottom line guy, but there's usually a good reason for it. Either the item for sale is a fair distance, or it's something I want, but I think the price is unrealistic. Either way, I need to know if it's worth spending the time on. Likewise, when I have stuff for sale and people ask my bottom line, I give it to them without hesitation. If they are still interested, it usually makes for an easy sale. If not, nothing lost.

When I sell things, I generally ask for what would be a good deal for both parties. If I'm selling a great condition C5 Z06 for $18k, why would you bother offering me $12k, or your 2004 Harley with "$30k invested?" I always end up getting what I want for stuff I really want to sell, but the idiots do get annoying.

The general rule I use for parts - buying and selling - is that brand new in box is worth 75% of current retail. Bolted to the car and taken off again equals 50% of current retail. Visibly used = anywhere from 25% to 50%.

z31maniac wrote: lulz, go buy Racelands.

lulz, enjoy your expensive paper weights.....