IIRC we had a Crutchfield rep on the forum. Hopefully we still do. I have a fairly small car audio system to build and I know very little about it so I don't want to miss something. Plus I'd like one of ours to get the commission, such as it will be.
Is it you? Fess up!
It's not me, but I'm a longtime customer (mid-1980's or so) and a fan, so I'll give your thread a free bump!
1988RedT2 said:It's not me, but I'm a longtime customer (mid-1980's or so) and a fan, so I'll give your thread a free bump!
Man, I used to love poring through those catalogs, looking at all the faceplates and comparing specs. Car audio was such a fun hobby in the 80s and 90s. Unfortunately, I think modern cars are slowly killing it with everything being so integrated.
I could advise on how to get the most for your money by simplifying and unnecessarily complex industry. Actually I could make some guidelines for a sticky.
In reply to svxsti :
Then what's stopping you 
? Come on, help us be (more) obnoxious in public!
Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) said:1988RedT2 said:It's not me, but I'm a longtime customer (mid-1980's or so) and a fan, so I'll give your thread a free bump!
Man, I used to love poring through those catalogs, looking at all the faceplates and comparing specs. Car audio was such a fun hobby in the 80s and 90s. Unfortunately, I think modern cars are slowly killing it with everything being so integrated.
That and a lot of new cars have REALLY good stereos stock. The premium audio in my '08 4Runner Limited was OUTSTANDING as was the system in my '11 Frontier Pro-4X. My 135 was pretty decent, the BRZ was lame. And the current NC............well, I don't expect a good sound quality in a convertible because of all the wind noise.
GIRTHQUAKE said:In reply to svxsti :
Then what's stopping you
Oh I advise on sound quality, which is in a vehicle with good soundproofing such as the Audi A8s, no windows open. MB Quart does make a great 6 speaker system for BMWs, which is similar to what I would achieve in any given vehicle with the Infinity 20M /JBL 20M mids and component speakers. The trick is to use the component woofers in parallel for bass with a sub amp that has filters and crossovers. For example Crutchfield has a Memphis SRX250.1 that I would could wire 2 6x9 or 6.5 Morels in parallel for accurate bass from 35-250hz and still use the tweeters with crossovers and the 20Ms that come with a crossover with a 4 channel amp and mount those directionally. Granted this would only be about a 500-750w RMS system but you have to consider the sensitivity of a driver with the wattage. For example, if you were foolish enough to buy a JL Audio 6.5 6w3v3 sub with only an 80db sensitivity at 150w RMS max(JL says 75w is optimum), this would be equivalent to an 83db driver at 75w max, 86db driver at 37.5w max and so one, because you only need half the power for every 3db increase in sensitivity.
*Buyer beware* Car audio does not have the same standards as home audio. If a manufacturer can't give you a frequency range +/-3db then the range is made up. This is why I have an SVS sub in my SUV. If you are stuck on having a sub box, make sure you know the F3 of the box your sub is going in, because some sealed boxes will not perform as low as the sub will.
Considering we won't be enjoying concerts anytime soon this is the best way to achieve the same affect. As far as tuning your system once it is installed, all you need to do is play a youtube video that plays a 20hz-20khz tone and adjust by ear on the fly. Everyone hears differently and even if you had a system perfectly tuned with a microphone it does not mean you will hear everything the same way. How do I know? A lot of money spent learing the hard way. Cheers!
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