Windshield install w/ rubber gasket

'81 Chevy PU. New LMC self-locking one-piece rubber gasket (no locking strip). Sourced new glass locally, it is thinner than factory glass, about 3/16" vs 1/4".

So I been told by a windshield guy I should use a sealer as well. I had to remove all the factory sealer for some surface rust issues. Factory sealer appeared ribbon like and laid in crevice between pinch weld and roof rail, roof and cowl lines. Will wire brush all to bare metal, fill pitting w/ bondo or spot glaze, prime and paint.

Some recommend a dry install, w/ metal repair and paint that could work as all will be smooth. I was gonna go w/ 3M 08509 non-hardening sealer in that channel as recommended by some resto sites. http://3mcollision.com/3m-auto-bedding-and-glazing-compound-08509-1.html

Any sealer better? Should it be reapplied only to the channel the way factory did or get generous w/ it? Am I asking for more difficulty using a one-piece gasket vs the locking strip gasket? Advice?

Whattyagot

I much prefer the self locking gaskets myself. But either way its not difficult. I usually just add a SMALL bead of urethane to the pinchweld then put the gasket on, then lip th glass into the gasket. Depending on how snug the glass is inside the gasket I might run a SMALL bead inside the gasket and glass channel as well.

In reply to Lancer007:

Do you use any sealer on the gasket outer lip to outside surface of windshield pillar, roof and cowl lines?

I have the pinchweld and any gasket contact areas deburred and smoothed uniform w/ skim of bondo. Will prime/ seal and color coat before gasket install.

In reply to fasted58:

The way I do it is when I put the gasket on the pinchweld, if it stays on by itself I won't use anything. If it fits loose or falls off then ill put a small amount of sealer across the top. But I don't strip the pinchweld to that extent so it couldn't hurt to, just don't use too much.