WWGRM Do? '12 Tacoma AT Transmission Maintenance

My father-in-law has a ’12 Tacoma Reg Cab, 4X4, 2.7L 4spd AT truck that’s been running well.  He goes to the dealer he bought it from for his free oil changes, and this time they said it needs a transmission fluid service for $210 (along some other stuff I’m doing – new front brakes, new brake fluid, and a new cabin filter). He has 95k on it, but doesn’t tow or carry heavy loads. I think the correct interval for the transmission service is 60k, so he’s over by a good bit. The fluid color is a light pink, so it can definitely stand to be changed, but isn’t horrific.

 I’ve offered to change the fluid for him, but I’m not sure which way to go:

• Option 1: Drain pan (~4qts), refill. Go with option #2 at 120k.
  • Pros: Not introducing all new fluid at once, somewhat better fluid in the transmission (total capacity is something like 10-11qts).
  • Cons: Haven’t cleaned the pan or replaced the filter in the pan, will have to do Option 2 at 120k anyways, so more time and minimal extra cost ($25 for the 4qts).
• Option 2: Drain pan 3X (with TC lockup in between drains), drop pan after last drain, clean pan, install new filter and refill.
  • Pros: fresh filter, all fresh fluid, clean pan, don’t have to touch it for another 60k.
  • Cons: Introducing all new fluid all at once.

If he had the fluid changed at 60k, I would have done Option 2 at 120k without hesitation. I’m leaning towards Option 2, but will introducing all that new fluid cause any issues? It’s not my truck, so the last thing I want to do is cause any issues. I know I’m overthinking this, but want to see some opinions from the hive.

Thanks!

Since the fluid it light pink, if it were mine, I would do option 1, possibly twice, and then do option 2 at 120k.    

FWIW I dont believe that the trans has a filter, just a screen.

I don't know about the Toyota, but our Maxima only had a screen.   

1, then 2 at 120k 

There is no con to option 2.  That is an old wives tale.  If it E36 M3s the bed with new fluid, it was gonna E36 M3 the bed regardless.

AngryCorvair said:

There is no con to option 2.  That is an old wives tale.  If it E36 M3s the bed with new fluid, it was gonna E36 M3 the bed regardless.

We try explaining this too alot of people at work. I've flushed cars that had brown and black fluid without issue and seen cars with pink fluid start slipping. (We use a fluid exchanger, dont blame the machine). 

Just change all the fluid

I do drain and fills in my autos every 30k miles. ATF is trying to do 3 things at once. Lubricate, cool and transfer power. It’s a gear lube coolant and hydraulic fluid all in one and expected to last long periods of time. With the Korean cars it’s a drain and fill usually no screen. The truck gets a pan drop and new filter. 

Hell I did 30k intervals on my manuals too. 

Thanks, guys! The weather is pretty cold here for the next few days, so I think I'm going to go for a drain and fill, and then tackle the full pan drop/filter at 120k. I found a video on the pan drop and filter (as Java230 mentioned, it's more of a screen) replacement, I think it's more than I want to get into during this cold snap we're having: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuGazNhuEtM

I'm usually really good about keeping fresh fluid in my auto (and manual for that matter) transmissions. IMHO it's cheap preventative maintenance.

I'd do #1 with good-quality fluid. 

In reply to dj06482 :

You have mail. 

In reply to dj06482 :

You have more mail now.

Dave M said:

I'd do #1 with good-quality fluid. 

Being that new, Toyota probably specifies their own fluid. 

In reply to Woody :

Now you have mail - thanks!

In reply to Dave M:

Toyota specs Type t-IV fluid, so I just stopped at the dealer and bought some. On a transmission that costs $3k for a refurb unit, I don't think it's worth it to play the "I saved $5 by using cheaper transmission fluid" game.