You could do a k swap. Those are getting cheap!
You could do a k swap. Those are getting cheap!
mad_machine wrote: sure he was a good mechanic? A leakdown test should tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about that cylinder. Lock the engine at TDC, run your compressor to the sparkplug hole and pressurize. If you hear air leaking out the exhaust, it's one of those valves, same for the intake. Check the radiator for bubbles and pop the oilcap to listen for air there.
This.
1000 times this.
I asked the mechanic about the leakdown test. He said he performed one, but wasn't able to confirm exactly where the leak was because there's no way to completely seal all the valves on the engine... or something like that. Which seems really odd to me. That would make sense if you're trying to leakdown test all the cylinders at the same time, but shouldn't you be able to sufficiently seal off just one cylinder?
I kind of get the feeling with this guy that he just doesn't want to commit to saying anything definite that he's not 100% certain of.
Given everything that has happened and not seeing any issues with the oil or coolant, I feel relatively confident that it's just an issue of a burnt or bent valve. That will not require a complete removal, tear down, or rebuild of the block. Just getting the head off.
What is so significant about the R63 that people keep mentioning?
Beer Baron wrote: What is so significant about the R63 that people keep mentioning?
It's the new benchmark for engine problems and resolve.
Beer Baron wrote:Double_Wishbone wrote: These engines are very similar to Honda K-series, and I know those are very popular with Honda tuners and enthusiasts. I used to be involved with a lot of Honda guys when preference just started shifting from the H-series to the K-series engines for swaps. People would build or have them built very frequently. Is the F20C that different from a K20 from a rebuilding perspective? I'd imagine there might be some additional cost for divergent parts, but someone familiar with Hondas and specifically the K- and later F-series engines should not find it to be a particularly complex job.I figured this wouldn't be *too* crazy of a job for a mechanic. Not sure how far I'd have to look to find one who specializes in fancy Honda engines. I have no idea how different the F series engine might be from the K series. I found a service manual pdf online. The head removal is pages 6-25 through 6-31 (pp139-145). Doesn't actually look too crazy. Looks like most of the work is removing things from around the sides and front, like intake and exhaust manifolds. That's not overly technical. Where it starts getting into wholly new territory for me is what happens with the rocker arms and dealing with those when pulling the cams out. It also isn't clear if there's something weird or special I need to do for like VTEC solenoid stuff or anything when reassembling everything.
I've taken apart some older Honda VTEC heads. I believe the basic design of the VTEC rockers, regular rockers, and the solenoid actuated push rod or whatever it is are similar across most Honda engine models with VTEC. It's not overly complicated compared to some other designs.
This should be something someone familiar with Hondas, even older engines, would be able to do. Maybe mechanics who haven't touched them would be intimidated. I certainly don't remember enough (all I remember is using a hammer, socket, and magnet to remove the valve keepers rather than a special tool which was fun) to offer any advice. I think if you are methodical, photograph/label your parts as you disassemble and reassemble, you should be good to go. Oh, and double and triple check your timing. Hondas are very sensitive to timing and that's not a mistake you want to make!
Beer Baron wrote: I asked the mechanic about the leakdown test. He said he performed one, but wasn't able to confirm exactly where the leak was because there's no way to completely seal all the valves on the engine... or something like that. Which seems really odd to me. That would make sense if you're trying to leakdown test *all* the cylinders at the same time, but shouldn't you be able to sufficiently seal off just one cylinder? I kind of get the feeling with this guy that he just doesn't want to commit to saying anything definite that he's not 100% certain of.
Yes, you test one cylinder at a time, just like a compression test.
Woa. New mechanic time. Look in the mirror for the next one. You can screw that motor up just as well as that guy can, and for a whole lot cheaper. That's how I started rebuilding motors, holding #3 piston from a Lotus TC in my hand and wondering where my two large went.
You think valve and timing are bad with a four-stroke, try tuning a race prepped two-stroke outboard! One or two degrees can be the difference between maximum power and a blown motor...
If you pull the head, take pics and put them up here. I wanna see it!
It's a 4cyle engine. Basics are the same in all. The difference is in the details.
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