No Time
No Time UberDork
9/10/24 11:38 a.m.

I need to replace the clutch in the Cooper and trying to figure out my best way to get it on jackstands with enough clearance to get the transmission out from under it. 

I will also need to get the subframe out, so locations for lifting and supporting it are probably going to be competing for the factory jack points. 

I saw these and thought it was an interesting concept, but I'm concerned about the quality, although I could probably spend a day grinding, welding, and reinforcing. 

Any thoughts, suggestions, or better suppliers?

Hydraulic ramps found in a South American river

Slippery
Slippery GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
9/10/24 12:20 p.m.

I used 10" high race ramps under the front wheels and 6 ton jacks out back to change the clutch in my M3. If that was enough clearance to remove the huge transmission (+HF jack) from underneath the M3, it should be fine on a Mini as well. 

My point, regular jack stands and service position (assuming that car can be put in that mode) should be plenty. The transmission should come out the front once in service position, or you can rest it on the ground while you change the clutch. 

 

No Time
No Time UberDork
9/10/24 4:19 p.m.

In reply to Slippery :

That my usual approach, ramps then transfer to jackstands if the front wheels need to come off. The truck and fwd cars typically don't require raising the rear.  I was just looking at ways to simplify raising the front and getting it on to the jackstands, and in the process over complicating the project.

You make a good point about not needing to necessarily get the transaxle out from under the car. At only 20k miles there shouldn't be any seals that need replacement. 

I know I'll need to separate the lower ball joints and drop the subframe to remove the transaxle. It looks like I can leave the axles installed in the hubs and just rotate the spindles to get them out of the way then slide back the front impact mounts to get the subframe out. Once that's done there will be room to move the transaxle out of the way to replace the flywheel and clutch. 

I may buy a new lower profile jack, my craftsman is old enough to drink and occasionally requires a pipe wrench to turn the handle to lower in a controlled manner. 

modemtones
modemtones New Reader
9/18/24 5:31 p.m.

I bought quickjacks last year and they're amazing. Added bonus of feeling a lot safer under the car than when it's on stands, but the downside is that anything that comes off the bottom of the car has to exit to the front or the rear since the jacks box out the area between the wheel wells

03Panther
03Panther PowerDork
9/18/24 11:33 p.m.

In reply to modemtones :

They also cost a tad bit more, than the ramps he referenced... and I have the identical questions about them as him. 
Surely someone on here has ordered some? Yay, or nay?

EvanB
EvanB GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
9/19/24 8:14 a.m.

On the MINI you can jack up the entire side without blocking either jacking point. The spot to do it is lined up with the mirror, use a piece of wood to spread the load. You can put the jack stands on one side, do the other side, then raise it up more on each to get to the height you need. 

There are videos on youtube (I think modmini was the one I watched when I was trying to figure it out) that show the best jack placement if the visual helps. 

Edit: found the video.

 

No Time
No Time UberDork
9/19/24 8:45 a.m.

In reply to EvanB :

Thank you for posting the video, that looks like it will work great. 

No Time
No Time UberDork
9/19/24 8:54 a.m.

What is the consensus on Jack stands from HF?

I have one pair that are not harbor freight, but use a pin to adjust the height, but I've had them for probably 2 decades.

Im thinking one of these two models for use on the MINI, Kia, Dodge Ram, and whatever other projects make their way to me. 
 

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