Matt
Reader
6/7/22 8:18 a.m.
I've been running a Holley double pumper on American V8's for a million years and they're great, I'm not putting anything electronic on my car in the foreseeable future (except a wide band AF gauge is planned right away). Does anybody have any set up tips that will make it a bit better for road racing/AX? stuff like float height, fuel pressure, pump cams, needle and seat specs, what about power valves?? i run a good elec pump set at 6.5 psi at idle - don't know what it drops to (if at all) at full speed.
I've always just ran it like the factory set it, but have recently had a couple hiccups (needle/seat stuck open in a corner, power valve had hole in diaphragm, running really rich all the time to name a couple) - so i thought I'd post it to the collective.
thanks!
NOHOME
MegaDork
6/7/22 9:49 a.m.
The AFR gauge is a good idea but I found that in order to use it, you need someone along to read it and make notes while you repeat a given throttle maneuver. Steady state, full throttle and off throttle, ect.
I find myself wanting to have Throttle position, MAP, RPM and AFR on a data log so that I can make sense of carb tuning. Kinda how I ended up buying a Fitech. Too bad the Fitech is pretty much junk.
The one thing I did get to like on the Fitech was the ability to monitor and log fuel data against engine operation.
I try and do all my tuning on the dyno so I can spend time optimizing part throttle metering under different loads. My Formula Ford has a TPS and O2 sensor connected to the data acquisition system during test days so I can monitor those conditions but tuning is time consuming as compared to dyno tuning. It's also not a 4150 but the carb tuning philosophy still applies.
As far as modifications are concerned I use screw in jet extenders
vent extenders and road racing floats with more trapezoidal ends.
The rest is just tuning accross the operating range.
Matt
Reader
6/7/22 6:57 p.m.
This is fantastic- thank you!!