My 1976 KZ-400 manual calls for API SD or SE 10W40 oil. My local auto parts store carries "motorcycle oil" in some national brand that says it has "superior wet clutch protection" or some such.
Question: Is "motorcycle oil" any different from "oil"? I mean, other than the price.
I've got nothing for this. I always used auto oil in my motorcycles without a problem. That said, I'd go here and look if I had any questions.
1976 should be pretty standard API designations. I usually call these exotic marketing claims a "Sucker Tax".
Motorcycle oil is a heavy duty oil with attention paid to the additive package for good clutch performance.
I believe there are additives for better clutch performance. There was a thread here a while ago talking about using Shell Rotala diesel oil. Some found it to work great, while others thought not. Might depend on the bike, too.
Ask yourself if the cost of a new clutch and plates are worth the savings.
Marketing, almost always.
The funniest one to me is Redline's V-twin transmission oil. They created a special bottle just for Harley folk. Redline tells you right on their web page that it's the exact same oil as their regular transmission oil.
Yet sure enough, the Harley forums are full of people swearing how it's much better than the regular Redline transmission oil.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: Motorcycle oil is a heavy duty oil with attention paid to the additive package for good clutch performance.
This. When I bought the Nighthawk back in 98 the two PO had used 10W40 automotive oil. The shifter sucked, the clutch was grabby and just unpleasant. Switched over to the motorcylce oil and instantly noticed the clutch felt completely different, the shifter actually, you know, shifted and it wasa differen bike.
I refuse to use anything else in it now.
I used to use Castrol GTX in my dwarf car (GSXR1052) and in all my other bikes but now have switched to Rotela in most and Brad Penn in the Harley. Stopped using GXT when they change the additives for less zinc, I kept noticing black stuff on the bottom of the white jugs....if the additives fall out on the shelf what's it do when the bike sits a couple of weeks?
In reply to Bobzilla:
Yeah, I had a similar experience with one of the Rotella products in my VFR, but a quart of Suzuki's conventional 20w50 mixed in took all of the glue out of the transmission. Shifter is smooth instead of notchy, clutch isn't so grabby, etc.
In reply to foxtrapper: You do realize that the transmission in an H-D is a very different situation inre: lubricant vs. something that shares fluid between the clutch, trans and engine. Right? Is Redline's motorcycle engine oils the same as their car oils?
There actually us a different rating standard for motorcycle oil that car oils do not usually meet. My understanding is its due to the additives in auto oil not meeting the specifications for motorcycle clutch use. Rotella full synthetic used to carry the standard spec required by most motorcycle manufactures but a few years ago I noticed it was harder to find labeled as such. The oil apparently did not change just the rating standard label. I ran rotella T in all my bikes with great success over ~100k miles.
i went ahead and order my oil in a case from walmart for like $50 shipped to my house so ive got oil for my next 3-4 changes. all i need to do is get a filter when i do the change.
Yes, I know a gearbox is different than an engine. Though with metric bikes sharing the same oil in their engine and gearbox.... I also know about the API, EPA, and their standards on oils and their additives. No, I don't think all oils are alike, and yes I have preferences. I also recognize at least some marketing in the advertising and claims.
This only matters if you have a bike with a shared engine/trans/wet clutch. One of the rotella's does meet the standards for a wet clutch though.
Separate supply/dry clutch means more "usual" oils.
On my bike with a wet clutch the primary/clutch/transmission share fluid but the engine/crankcase has its own oil. You can actually run the same oil in the engine and transmission. I gave up worrying about specifications and run whichever 15w-40 diesel oil is the cheapest, but I also ride a rats bike. I got sick of 22$ gallon motorcycle oil, I'd just run whatever is cheap and don't worry about it. If you have an aircooled bike you might pay a bit more attention but for me oil is oil is oil.
Rotella is your friend.
The Mobil 1 20w-50 motorcycle oil is the go to oil for the internal zero turn drives in my lawn mower. Been using it for a few years with good success.
JASO MA is the approval for wet clutch use. Certain Rotella's indeed carry this designation. And only $22/gal for motorcycle oil, ROFL, I use that exotic baby seal blood(3x more)
DO NOT switch between synthetic/conventional if you have wet clutches though.
Yeah, I got the valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil. This discussion got me to thinking back a bit and I do recall having some issues with the shifter being hard to get into neutral. Since I've been running the valvoline, it seems better. Cost be dammed, at least it doesn't take but 3 liters.
Mine takes 3.2L with the filter.....oddly a 4L thing of Motul cost less than the 4 1L bottles by about $10.
If using synthetic for the first time in a wet clutch system or installing a new clutch, make sure to soak the clutch in the sythetic beforehand.
Another vote for Rotella T here. $16 for the big bottle and that's plenty for my oil cooled bike.
Basically, the two on the left are BAD for bikes. Stick with diesel rated oils and you are good.
Correctamundo.
That is the oil that will destroy your clutch plates.
The nighthawk is air cooled. sitting in summer traffic etc I use th 20W50 Mobil1 oil in it and it has worked so much better.
In reply to Bobzilla:
Agree. When I had a local shop change the oil on my rescued orphan Katana, they used Rotella. The clutch was grabby, especially the first time I would shift into first (the clutch would grab and the bike would stall). This was after the clutch was adjusted. Just changed to Mobil 1 4T and even on cold mornings, no grab. Some have said that synthetic will make the clutch slip, but thus far, at low speeds, no slippage. Unwilling find out more when the weather is warmer. I use Dino motorcycle oil in my older UJMs
Moparman wrote: Some have said that synthetic will make the clutch slip, but thus far, at low speeds, no slippage.
That was an old wives tale from when synthetics were first hitting the public market. It's right up there beside claims of inability to break an engine in using synthetic oils, and some mysterious danger of switching back to regular dino oil.
I've also yet to experience clutch slippage/damage from an energy conserving oil. 'Course, I've yet to experience increased gas mileage as well.
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