Thinking about a new bicycle

I am looking into getting a new bike and i just want to bounce a few ideas off of our resident bike specialists. To date, all the bikes in my life have been $100 walmart type mountain bikes. I'm looking into something a bit better.

Here goes, I want a fixed frame(??,hard tail, no rear suspension, what ever the proper term is). My current bike is rear sprung and I don't like it, (1) I cant use a thrue frame trunk mount bike carrier, (2) it feals like it takes more energy to peddal, (3) until I drop about 50# I nearly bottom it out. Out front OTOH, I would like a sprung fork.

I don't really care how many gears I have, I just want the derailures alligned properly and Trigger shifters. For brakes, disks would be nice, but not a deal breaker. The rest of it, nothing fancy, just what works well.

So I have the shopping list, now I just need to figure things out.

Any of the major brand bikes in the $400-$500 range will do fine.

Trek, Specialized, etc. If you give up disc brakes, you might get a better fork or shifters/derailleurs.

Basically, what you want to look for is the best frame/fork/wheels you can get for the money. All else effects performance much less than the big items and are relatively less expensive to uprate to later on.

Like CrackMonkey said, $400-500 will get you something decent with a lot of potential. I no longer work at a shop that sells mountain bikes, but a Trek 4500 or Gary Fisher Marlin would be perfect for your needs. I don't know what those go for now, but a couple years ago, (when I sold them) they were low $400s for V-brakes and low $500s for the disc version of the same bike.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mountain_bikes.htm

Motobecane bikes seem to have very good specs for the money. Some people may talk trash, but I'm sure the frames are built in the same factory in Taiwan as my Gary Fisher 29er.

2002maniac wrote: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mountain_bikes.htm Motobecane bikes seem to have very good specs for the money. Some people may talk trash, but I'm sure the frames are built in the same factory in Taiwan as my Gary Fisher 29er.

They may or may not be made in the same factory, but the materials used and the people putting them together are very, very different. I'm very familiar with both Motobecane and Gary Fisher. There is a huge quality difference in material as well as fit/finish. The Motobecanes use mostly straight gauge tubing, every tube on your Gary Fisher is butted and designed specifically for that model and size. The welds are visibly better, I could go on, but really for not a lot more than a Motobecane you can get a much better Fisher.

I'm not trying to be a snob, I'm just trying to relay my opinions and experienced observations.

What I would suggest: hold out another month until October or November and pick up a 2009 model of your choice at a reduced rate. This is when all the 2010 bikes come out the shops will be willing to move the 2009 stock.

Carson wrote:

2002maniac wrote: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mountain_bikes.htm Motobecane bikes seem to have very good specs for the money. Some people may talk trash, but I'm sure the frames are built in the same factory in Taiwan as my Gary Fisher 29er.

They may or may not be made in the same factory, but the materials used and the people putting them together are very, very different. I'm very familiar with both Motobecane and Gary Fisher. There is a huge quality difference in material as well as fit/finish. The Motobecanes use mostly straight gauge tubing, every tube on your Gary Fisher is butted and designed specifically for that model and size. The welds are visibly better, I could go on, but really for not a lot more than a Motobecane you can get a much better Fisher. I'm not trying to be a snob, I'm just trying to relay my opinions and experienced observations. What I would suggest: hold out another month until October or November and pick up a 2009 model of your choice at a reduced rate. This is when all the 2010 bikes come out the shops will be willing to move the 2009 stock.

actually, you should be able to do that right now with 2009 specialized stuff. at least we are but we are a huge specialized shop so i can't speak for the relationship your lbs and their spec. rep have.

Just to add to what others have said: Yup...Fisher makes a decent hardtail, and Specialized has a Hard Rock with disc brakes in that same price ballpark which would be another good choice. When comparing name brand bikes (Trek, Giant, Specialized, etc) in the same general price range, it really comes down to which one fits you the best, which one you like the ride of, and which bike shop seems to give you best service or the best gut feeling...the rest is just minor details.

2010 models are trickling in to bike shops right now, so you may be able to find a 2009 on closeout either now or sometime in the near future.

Mechanical disc brakes can work well enough to offer good bang for the buck. In my experience, the Avid BB7 is one of the best, with Shimano Deore mechanical also working well. The Avid BB5 is second-tier, and the Tektro ones offer less power and poor adjustability, so avoid if possible. Any mechanical disc brake will work best with fairly frequent readjustment, and without they will start to suffer performance-wise as they wear. It is fairly straightforward for the ambitious home mechanic, but if you would rather just ride the thing, some shops may offer free or discounted basic brake adjustments on bikes purchased through them...ask around when looking and test riding.

A bike in the $400-500 price range should be a good starting point for recreational riding and could be upgraded or traded-in down the road if you really love riding and get more serious.

Have fun and plan on spending some time shopping around, test riding, and asking questions in order to get the best chance for long term new bike satisfaction.

You didn't mention what kind of riding you will be doing. If you don't plan to venture off-road, a hybrid of some sort might be a better choice. They'll typically roll a lot better on pavement, but still have tires that are fat enough for gravel or grass (and might have a front suspension fork) - they just won't be up to true mountain biking. These days, some of the hybrids are really sweet bikes - that market segment has really matured over the last decade.

Something like... Trek 7.1FX (more road) or 7100 (more hybrid) Specialized Sirrus (more road) or Crosstrail (more hybrid) Marin Muirwoods or Kentfield Basically, anything from a company's urban or bike path lines (they all call them different things).

I went and looked yesterday at one shop, the salesguy recomended a cannondale F9, IIRC. It was $469.

In reply to neon4891:

All I know is those RST forks are uber-crappy

Have you considered buying a used bike? You could probably pick something up that's a year old and much better equipped for the same price.

you never did say waht kind of riding you plan to do...

that being said... smartly buying used can buy A LOT of bike...

I got this baby for $500... King headset, hand built hope/salsa wheelset, Thompson seatpost sram 9.0/7.0 mix (older high/mid end shifty bits) it's a surly karate monkey frame/fork (29er MTB) i've added a sprung fork and change the bars and tires but not much else... it's a solid machine (has to be to roll a 300# guy like me)

road bike... paid a little more then I should have on it... but it's not easy finding a 25.5 inch frame (almost 65cm)

did some upgrades and didn't spend very much on it thanks to some friendly PORC (pensacola off road cyclist) club members and closeout prices at jensonUSA I have about $350 into it including the 2 extra wheelsets (so 3 total) (pics don't show the ultegra triple crank on her)... need different tires and would like a brooks saddle on her... she's a great ride... still working on dialing in my fit 100% but

last... and by far the best value of the group... 1988 GT avalanche (1st year of the triple triangle)... great condition and some realy nice upgrades from the early 90's... paid $50 for her

I set her up as my commuter, it came with the rack, had to put some different tires on (freebies from shop buddy), different bars, slapped some shifters and a saddle I had laying around on there along with new cables and housing and brake pads... maybe 90$ into her...

so the moral of the story... if you know what you are looking for... used is the way to go... watch craigslist if you've got one and you can find some good deals (thats where i found the GT and Trek), if you've got a local region forum you can look there also (where I found the Surly)

also remember the cost for extras, helmet, cycling shorts (makes a huge difference), tools (just some hex keys and tube repair kit will do the trick almost as well as most of the multi tools)

either way... find what works for you and pedal your ass off :)

Look into Diamondback/Raleigh/Haro MTB offerings...most are standard hardtail frames with adjustable forks, "rapidfire" aka trigger shifters, reasonably good wheels and other small components, and some with mechanical (most likely not hydraulic) disc brakes

The difference in the 2 brakes is that Hydraulic brakes give you the same mechanical advantage as they do in a car - utilizing a master and slave cylinder, you multiply your force from the lever to the actual disc. Theyre great, but pricey compared to "mechanical" or cable actuated disc brakes. They work better wet/dirty than Cantilever (V-brakes) and if you wail your wheel on the trail, a little wobble is not going to make the rest of the ride feel like your on a stationary bike with the resistance turned up to the moon.

Realistically $350-$500 will net you a great, tough, ready for the trails bike. I just really like the 3 brands I mentioned above because theyre not all pretentious like other brands. Youre buying an entry level bike, and they approach their models that way...no gimmicks or posturing.

Also +1 on surly...but you typically have to build it/have the shop build it as I dont think they offer complete bikes. But I did own an Instigator frame and a Bomber fork when I was getting into MTB, and it was rad!!!

Bikesdirect.com has some good deals. I've spent quite a bit of time on there looking around and dreaming if I ever get the urge for another bike..

Revival time! How are "suspension posts" compared to rear suspension, in terms of wasting energy? A few of the bikes that look good have those.

As for riding style, mostly road and bike path. The loosest surface I plan on will be hard pack dirt.

I was very tempted to just go buy a Huffy Cranbrook beach cruiser the other day, single speed, coaster brake, classic looks and $84. Being a cheap SOB doesn't help when looking at bikes.

A suspension seat post is no alternative to a proper rear suspension system. You'll find suspension posts on a lot of hybrid bikes, and they're really just designed for comfort. For casual bike path riding, any wasted energy would be negligible. However, if you were covering some greater distances, especially up hill, a suspension post would be doing you no favor. In which case, you could easily switch to a 'rigid' post for a few bucks.

Also, most of those "cruiser" style bikes are rubbish to ride. They look cool, but they're usually overly heavy, and some of them have quite limited steering lock. Definitely take one for a test ride before buying.

My comparison is that I HATE my rear sprung bike, and it take more effort with just up and down the road than when I hop on a hard tail. I

f swapping out posts is an option, I'm sure I have a post that can fit.

eBay.

I scored my brand-new, still-in-the-box 1993 Univega Carbolite M7.3 for $300.00

This was a $1200 bike in 1993.

The bike is light as a feather (Carbon fibre with aluminum lugs), Deore LX/DX component group (best cantilever brakes ever).

I have a modern aluminum hardtail (Norco Wolverine) but given the E36 M3kicking modern bikes are built to take thanks to the dirt jump / freeride crowd, it's too damn heavy.

Shawn

What about a single speed (not direct drive) mountain bike. Basically, a big BMX bike. They'll get up to a decent speed, offroad ok and pound pavement all day long.

I had a Haro Zero and loved it (sold it just cause I rarely rode it). They don't make them anymore, but it'll give you ideas. Suspended front, disks on the rear (can be added to the front).

-Rob

@ Rob - that is what I am looking for. A single speed, hardtail jump bike.

I am looking used for something like a GT Ruckus or a Mongoose Ritual. They were approx $500 or $600 new. What would a bike like that be worth after a year or two, in good shape?

Ahem, RST doesn't make all crappy suspension anymore.

My RST M-29 has gotten rave reviews from some harsh critics, and some have even said it rides as nice as Rock Shox Reba off the shelf.

The GT Ruckus 24 (if you can find one) is a super awesome jump bike.

I'd also look at the Eastern Thunderbird.

Ahem:

24"bmx/freeride: http://www.diamondbackbmx.com/bikes/jump/session-24/

26 MTB: http://www.dkbicycles.com/completes.html?completes/2010/park/asterik26/main.html

Dismissing fuIl suspension mountain bikes based on an experience with a Walmart bike is kinda' like dismissing all European cars because you once owned a Yugo.

That being said, in the price range you stated, you would be hard pressed to find a decent new suspension bike. The modern platforms and shock technology have made it hard to justify a hardtail, given the budget for a "boinger". Many world class mtb races are being won on full-suspension bikes, including the 2008 cross country world championship. But, you are quite wise to select a good hardtail over a cheap suspension bike.

Beautiful Surly, Donalson!

Sorry, I just re-read my post regarding suspension vs. hardtails and it sounded rather pompous. It was not intended that way. I hope I did not offend anyone.

Bah. Be different! Make your own bike!