Put a hammer bit in your air chisel, set it to a pretty low setting( I think I was on 1 or 2 on a CP714 with 120psi to it, you don't want enough force to damage the underlying metal), put on ear protection and rattle away, the hammering breaks the adhesive loose and it peels right up in big chunks.
Sounds cheaper than the dry ice method as well.
Which... does work quite well. And you can still play with a hammer.
Swank Force One wrote:
that can't be good for the bearings.......
Maybe that was the hammer...
It comes up in much bigger chunks with the air hammer smacking it at room temp, like hand sized. Plus you dont have to swing a hammer, screw with chisels, etc. Discovered this trick on accident using the air hammer to form patches for my rusted out spare tire well on my prizm.
I used cold for most of mine, but a 2" chisel bit in the air hammer at 10psi knocked out the rest pretty well. Peels it right up.
I use a putty knife and heat gun with just enough heat to peel but not melt it.
I can do a whole E36 M3 in half an hour but, man, the first time I did it... before I got the finesse of "just enough" heat I struggled for hours.
The residue/adhesive that won't come off? Mineral spirits and a rag and it's ready for paint.
A long time ago, I did the trunk and back seat of an e30 with a hammer and chisel. Hard work. Hard, dumb, work. All good info above.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:
I can do a whole E36 M3 in half an hour
I think you need more fiber in your diet.
If you have access to liquid nitrogen, a splash is all you need. The whole chunk pops clean off. Did an RX7 with 5 gallons.
Would a temperature change that drastic mess with the steel?
In reply to Brett_Murphy:
With the steel itself, maybe not.
But I would be worried about all the spot-welds and any sealers used while assembling the BIW.
gohero
New Reader
4/28/15 8:20 p.m.
I have tried dry ice, but I find it still hard to remove it... So used an air chisel to remove it faster.