Somehow, that was the last photo I took before we stopped for the night. And it's also the moment right before that road went to hell. We rode for 10 miles, working harder and harder, as the road got softer, the ruts got deeper, and the whole place started to feel more like Soviet Russia than southern Georgia.
Finally, we hit the impassable part: There was a bridge missing, and the locals had cut a narrow ATV detour through the sandy riverbed, with a 60-degree riverbank on each side. I proposed to Johnny that we work together and try to drag each bike through the creek and continue, but he decided that was stupid and we turned around.
A quick detour later, and we found ourselves going 50 mph on smooth, fast unpaved farm roads. One problem with that: We needed a campsite, and farms are private property. We rode until sunset without passing any public land, then finally saw a family on a UTV stopped on the side of the road.
"Hey, you don't know of any places around here were we could set up our tents for the night, do you?"
"Absolutely! You can camp right down there!"
With that, they gestured down to the river 20' or so below the road. We would have never noticed it if they hadn't been there. With that, the family drove away and Johnny and I were left to make a decision.
We walked down to the riverbank, and were shocked at the amount of human activity--the ground was trampled, there was a trash can full of beer cans, and there was grafitti everywhere. A handmade sign said something like "please respect so and so's creek."
After debating for a few minutes, we decided to keep riding for another mile just to see what we'd be camping next to. We hopped back on the road, and half a mile later we passed a convoy of UTVs going the other direction. They had giant lifts, booming stereos, giant coolers flashing lights, and a dozen or so people in bathing suits hanging all over them.
We weren't in the mood for a giant party, so we kept riding. Finally it got dark and we called it: We'd suck it up and spend the money on a hotel room for our last night on the trail. $70 later, and we'd scratched some furniture and shoved our bikes into a nasty Western Inn motel room. Sleeping in the A/C was nice, but we both agreed it was miserable compared to the woods: We should have stayed by the river.