I'm half tempted to send Blackstone a sample of my oil just to see what their response is. I'm thinking Bill Cosby in the Noah's Ark sketch.
While we had the car in for an alignment and some other maintenance, we had the oil changed.
Following Red Line’s recommendation, we refilled the engine with their 15W50 synthetic oil.
To get a better picture of our engine’s health, we sent a sample of the old oil to Blackstone Laboratories.
Their mailer features a container inside a container so that it can be sent via regular post.
And good news: The Blackstone report said that things looked good. Going forward, we’ll regularly have our M3’s oil analyzed.
When we bought our 2004 BMW M3, a big, big question loomed: How were those rod bearings?
The E46-chassis M3 has a bad rap regarding rod bearings issues, and even though our car was built after BMW made an update, we were still concerned. Hey, we like to worry. Was the engine about to come apart? Should we plan to replace the bearings asap?
“There are pre-update production cars with a warranty repair, and post-update cars that ‘didn’t need it,’” BimmerWorld’s James Clay explains. “The fact is if this engine, and the BMW S65, S85 and other high-revving M engines, aren’t treated properly—warmed up before being flogged—are all susceptible to rod bearing issues. This is not a production date thing: It is a matter of having a performance engine that requires proper care and handling.”
After refilling our sump with fresh oil–specifically Red Line 15W50–we sent a sample of the used oil to Blackstone Laboratories. That’s their specialty: used oil analysis. Their lab work would reveal the true story.
They provide the specimen bottles for free. Fill up as directed, complete the paperwork, and return via post with a $28 payment. The report would arrive via e-mail.
For a reference point, we included a 2010 report that came with the car. We also explained our predicament: “The big question: Is it time to change the rod bearings? We can handle the truth.”
So we sent off the sample along with our heartfelt note and waited.
And waited.
And waited.
And about two weeks later, we had our news. (Don’t forget, we’re also impatient.)
Good news from the report: “Lead is low, so bearing wear isn’t a concern.”
More good news in the report: “Pretty good report, overall!” (We’re not sure if we should worry about that unnecessary comma, however.)
For a second opinion, we sent the report to James Clay at BimmerWorld. His reply: stop worrying.
For a third option, we sent the report to Cameron Evans at Red Line Synthetic Oil. His reply: Yes, please stop worrying.
Both added that we should allow the engine properly warm up–ideally 180 degrees before applying any heavy load or high rpm. In fact, they both said, allow the car to warm up before leaving the garage each morning.
“The short commutes that never get up to oil temp are the kiss of death to these cars,” Evans added. “That’s why BMW’s choice of 10W60 is so problematic! If you have a short, slow speed commute, and never get up to temp going to work or from work, that means the engine spends most of its life with lubricant that is never working correctly.
“When the oil doesn’t get hot enough, it doesn’t trap contaminants and creates that famous sludge. Also, when the oil doesn’t get up to temp, the additive packages in the oil don’t help to control wear. Plus, thick oil doesn’t get into the bearings properly.
“These commute cars need thinner oil than what BMW recommends. Our 15W50 will suit you fine, but you can see why some should even go to a 10W40.”
For engines that are going to be worked hard, though, Clay stressed that a 15W50 oil should be used. “The 40WT is fine for commutes, but the high revs need the thicker oil for bearing protection,” he adds.
What about fuel dilution of the oil? we asked. Should we worry that allowing the car to sit while warming up was causing a secondary problem? (Remember what we said about worrying about stuff.)
“Ring seal isn’t horrible in a cold motor,” Evans added. “It’s not a problem to the extent of not being able to squeeze thick motor oil into bearings.”
So we’re following their advice and allowing the car to properly warm up.
Next, we have some suspension bushings to replace.
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I'm half tempted to send Blackstone a sample of my oil just to see what their response is. I'm thinking Bill Cosby in the Noah's Ark sketch.
Would a block heater help with a short commute car? Get the engine up to temp faster?
Having lived in extreme north (Fairbanks, Alaska) and having vehicles with block heaters. Block heaters won't heat the oil, they are installed in freeze plug openings and keep the coolant from freezing. Now if you can find an oil heater, like for an air-cooled motor and/or modify it or something along that line in the oil sump, that may work. But then you'll have heated oil circulating in a cold engine. Have no idea if that would be beneficial or not.
You can get heating pads that adhere to the oil pan.
Many European cars have coolant-oil heat exchangers, warm coolant WILL warm the oil up. I would be shocked if an M3 did not have such a device.
wlkelley3 wrote: Having lived in extreme north (Fairbanks, Alaska) and having vehicles with block heaters. Block heaters won't heat the oil, they are installed in freeze plug openings and keep the coolant from freezing. Now if you can find an oil heater, like for an air-cooled motor and/or modify it or something along that line in the oil sump, that may work. But then you'll have heated oil circulating in a cold engine. Have no idea if that would be beneficial or not.
Warm coolant heats the engine block which would heat the oil.. A couple gallons of oil would heat up pretty fast when interfacing with a few hundred pounds of aluminum and coolant, I would think.
Here's the report for those who are coming here from the message board and are skipping the formal project car post:
The entire process was quite painless.
Good stuff and looks pretty similar to my last one at 47k... Iron and copper about right, lead staying low, etc. I am also not (yet) too worried about rod bearings...
I didn't realize they had gotten so expensive.
getfast wrote: Good stuff and looks pretty similar to my last one at 47k... Iron and copper about right, lead staying low, etc. I am also not (yet) too worried about rod bearings...
That's good to hear (all of it).
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